Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Festive San Francisco Civic Center

Last Saturday, on my way to San Francisco Symphony to attend the Britten's War Requiem at San Francisco Symphony, I saw some lovely sights in San Francisco, which, just days after Thanksgiving, really dressed up for holiday season.

First, we saw a glorious sunset at Rockridge BART (subway) Station, with San Francisco in the backdrop:

DSCN7432 _ San Francisco, seen from Rockridge BART station, 30 November 2013

DSCN7435 _ San Francisco, seen from Rockridge BART station, 30 November 2013

DSCN7433 _ San Francisco, seen from Rockridge BART station, 30 November 2013

DSCN7434_ San Francisco seen from Rockridge BART Station, 30 Nov 2013

Once exited from Civic Center Station, we walked by a brightly lit Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, facing San Francisco City Hall, which basked in striking red glow, though it resembled less the coat of Santa Claus, rather, frock of a devil.  Nevertheless, it was eye-catching.

DSCN7437_ Bill Graham Civic Auditorium, 30 Nov 2013
Bill Graham Civic Auditorium

DSCN7436 _ San Francisco City Hall, 30 November 2013

DSCN7438 _ San Francisco City Hall, 30 November 2013

DSCN7440_ San Francisco City Hall, 30 Nov 2013 DSCN7461_ San Francisco City Hall, 30 Nov 2013
San Francisco City Hall

Then, we saw the glow emitted from San Francisco Opera House and the Symphony Hall:

DSCN7442_ San Francisco Opera House & Symphony Hall 30 Nov 2013
Davies Symphony Hall & War Memorial Opera House

DSCN7458_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
War Memorial Opera House

DSCN7443_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Davies Symphony Hall

Before the performance, we went to the balcony of the Symphony Hall to take another glimpse of the startling City Hall:

DSCN7459 _ San Francisco City Hall, 30 November 2013

DSCN7457 _ San Francisco City Hall, 30 November 2013

DSCN7462 _ San Francisco City Hall, 30 November 2013

DSCN7460_ San Francisco City Hall & Opera House, seen from Symphony Hall, 30 Nov 2013


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Monday, December 2, 2013

Britten's War Requiem at San Francisco Symphony


DSCN7434_ San Francisco seen from Rockridge BART Station, 30 Nov 2013
San Francisco seen from Rockridge BART Station

DSCN7460_ San Francisco City Hall & Opera House, seen from Symphony Hall, 30 Nov 2013
San Francisco City Hall, seen from balcony of Davies Symphony Hall

On the evening of the Saturday after Thanksgiving, a beautiful late autumn / early winter evening, we went to San Francisco Symphony to attend a performance of Benjamin Britten's War Requiem, part of Britten centennial celebration.

DSCN7443_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Davies Symphony Hall, home to San Francisco Symphony Orchestra

San Francisco Civic Center dresses up for the festive season; yet, inside the symphony hall, the modernistic interior kept the festival mood in check, which was rather fitting, considering the theme of the War Requiem, a solemn pieced commissioned for the consecration of Saint Michael's Cathedral, Coventry, severely damaged during the World War II, and premiered in the Cathedral on May 30, 1962, on the ravage of war.

DSCN7445_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013 DSCN7451_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7452_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7454_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013 DSCN7455_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7463_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7464_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7465_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013 DSCN7466_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

After the informative but a bit too narrowly focused lecture, we took our seats, eagerly waiting for the performance to start.  The soprano soloist, Christine Brewer, also took her position, in the far back of the orchestra, just below the chorus:

DSCN7468_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7471_ Soprano Christine Brewer before the performance of War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

The performance was a moving account of one of the most shattering works of modern literature, composed by the troubled pacifist Britten, juxtaposes the Latin Requiem Mass with verses by the World War I poet Wilfred Owen, as a cry protest against the brutality of the War and an attempt to console the War's victims.  Led by the renowned maestro Semyon Bychkov, soloists Christine Brewer (soprano), James Gilchrist (tenor), Roderick Williams (baritone), joining the San Francisco Symphony and San Francisco Symphony Chorus, and the invisible Pacific Boychoir, gave their most sincere responses to the poem and liturgy.  The long evening took us through many emotions - fear, anger, grieve, sadness, resignation, protest, tentative hope and consolation. 

The tenor and baritone articulated Owen's poems with great dexterity and clarify, accompanied by a chamber orchestra, sitting on stage right; the soprano, rode the wave, led the charge, or cut through the thickets of the great waves of sound emitted from the large orchestra in front of her, in magisterial and beautiful voice, gave an authoritative and heart-felt reading, and at times her fragmented cries poured force like a lightening sent force from earth to heaven, controlled and dignified, nothing sounded like a harridan, rather a great Greek tragedian, or a primordial earth goddess.

The chorus sang with great emotion, beauty and precision, so did the boys, gently lending their other-worldly voices to the ravaged world.

The performance of this shattering and profound music was searing and wrenching.  After the final note, the entire hall sank into deep silence for about two minutes.  Not a single person made a move and attempted to clap hands during that collective meditative moment.  Afterwards, from a section, some gentle hand clapping started and gradually, the clapping sound spread and erupted and the well-earned standing ovation ensued.

The rest of the pictures were taken from the curtail calls:

DSCN7473_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7474_ Curtain, Soprano Christine Brewer, War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Christine Brewer (soprano)

DSCN7494_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Mixed chorus

DSCN7486_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013

DSCN7485_ Curtain - Boys Choir, War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
The angelic Pacific Boychoir, who sang behind the stair door during the evening

DSCN7488_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Christine Brewer (soprano), James Gilchrist (tenor), Roderick Williams (baritone), Ragnar Bohlin (chorus director) & Semyon Bychkov (conductor)

DSCN7498_ War Requiem, SFS 30 Nov 2013
Christine Brewer (soprano), James Gilchrist (tenor), Roderick Williams (baritone), Semyon Bychkov (conductor) & Ragnar Bohlin (chorus director)

An utterly unforgettable evening.


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Sunday, December 1, 2013

Treasure in Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China


DSCN6180 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6182 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China DSCN6235 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

Liaoning Museum in Shenyang, my home city in Manchuria, the capital city of Qing Dynasty before the Manchu people conquered the Han China inside the Great Wall and made Beijing new capital, had many art and craft treasures, mostly as the legacy of the former imperial glory.  Due to the fragility of those Chinese paintings and calligraphy on silk or paper, and my dwelling in the U.S. for more than half of my life now, I hadn't the chance to view most, if any, of those the most valuable works collected in that museum, till last September, when they assembled some of their most notable works on display, including one of the most famous paintings from ancient China - 簪花仕女图 Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers by 周昉 Fang ZHOU, Tang Dynasty, (active 766~779 - 785~804). The sublime and exquisite painting captured the luxury and easy of the court life during the most self-confident period of Chinese history - Tang Dynasty (618-906 A.D.). 

DSCN6221 _ Enlarged replica of 簪花仕女图 (Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers), 周昉 Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China
簪花仕女图 Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers and enlarged replica (Top), 周昉 Fang Zhou, Tang Dynasty, (active 766~779 - 785~804), 46x180cm

DSCN6222 _ 簪花仕女图 (Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers), 周昉 Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China



DSCN6183 _ 簪花仕女图 (Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers) (detail), 周昉 Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6228 _ Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers (detail 3), Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China DSCN6227 _ Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers (detail 2), Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China DSCN6226 _ Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair with Flowers (detail 1), Fang ZHOU, 46x180cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

Another finest example was an ancient copy by an unknown Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) artist of a legendary painter 顾恺之 Kaizhi GU (c. 344-405), on the theme of an ode to the beautiful Goddess of River Luo, who had a romantic encounter with the poet, 曹植 Zhi CAO (192-232), in his romantic poem of the same title.

DSCN6203 _ 摹顾恺之洛神赋图 Copy of Ode to Goddess of River Luo by Kaizhi FU (detail), 佚名 Anonymous, 北宋 Northern Song Dynasty, 26.3x641.6cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6196 _ 摹顾恺之洛神赋图 Copy of Ode to Goddess of River Luo by Kaizhi FU (detail), 佚名 Anonymous, 北宋 Northern Song Dynasty, 26.3x641.6cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China


摹顾恺之洛神赋图 Copy of Ode to Goddess of River Luo by Kaizhi GU, 佚名 Anonymous, Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), 26.3x641.6cm

Other works on display included some imaginary and realistic landscapes, such as 茂林远岫图 Landscape of Luxuriant Forest and Distant Cave by 李成 Cheng LI, Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127) and 荷乡清夏图 Clear Summer Lotus Country by 马麟 Lin MA, Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) and 竹西草堂图 Bamboo West Cottage, by 赵雍 & 张渥, Yong ZHAO & Wo ZHANG, Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368):

DSCN6230 _ 茂林远岫图 Landscape of Luxuriant Forest and Distant Cave, 李成 Cheng LI, 北宋 Northern Song Dynasty, 45.5x143.2cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China
茂林远岫图 Landscape of Luxuriant Forest and Distant Cave, 李成 Cheng LI, 北宋 Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), 45.5x143.2cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China


茂林远岫图 Landscape of Luxuriant Forest and Distant Cave, 李成 Cheng LI, 北宋 Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), 45.5x143.2cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6217 _ 荷乡清夏图 Clear Summer Lotus Country, 马麟 Lin MA, 南宋 Southern Song Dynasty, 41.7x323cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China
荷乡清夏图 Clear Summer Lotus Country, 马麟 Lin MA, Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), 41.7x323cm

 
荷乡清夏图 Clear Summer Lotus Country, 马麟 Lin MA, Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), 41.7x323cm

DSCN6205 _ 竹西草堂图 Bamboo West Cottage, 赵雍 & 张渥, Yong ZHAO & Wo ZHANG, 元 Yuan Dynasty, 27.5x125.3cm & 27.4x81.2cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China
竹西草堂图 Bamboo West Cottage (detail), 赵雍 & 张渥, Yong ZHAO & Wo ZHANG, Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), 27.5x125.3cm & 27.4x81.2cm



竹西草堂图 Bamboo West Cottage, 赵雍& 张渥, Yong ZHAO & Wo ZHANG, Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368), 27.5x125.3cm & 27.4x81.2cm

There was a rare portrait by another famous painter of Yuan Dynasty, 赵孟頫 Mengfu ZHAO (1304), 红衣西域僧图 Red Robed Western Monk, depicting a high Buddhist monk with from the Central Asia (west to China), meditating under a Bodhi tree.  The features of the monk were vividly depicted and the colors of the green rock and his red robe, formed great contrast yet without clash, due to the less than fully saturated nature of the colors employed.  An unforgettable piece.

DSCN6209 _ 红衣西域僧图 Red Robed Western Monk, 赵孟頫 Mengfu ZHAO, 1304, 26x52cm, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China 


红衣西域僧图 Red Robed Western Monk, 赵孟頫 Mengfu ZHAO, 1304, 26x52cm

There were more notable paintings, such as these two below, whose attributes I failed to record, though:

DSCN6211 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6206 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

Calligraphy was a highly regarded art in China, though I am not trained in that field and could only respond to them due to their visceral impacts. Below are several pieces I found amazing, many for their sheer scales, and beauty of course:


草书古诗四帖 Cursive Calligraphy Four Poems, 张旭 Xu ZHANG,Tang Dynasty, 29.5x195.2cm

DSCN6215 _ A Calligraphy Scroll, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6191 _ A Calligraphy Scroll, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China



There were many other treasures, particularly archeological artifacts, in Liaoning Museum, as I reported before.  Due to time constraint, I skipped those sections, and visited briefly another special photography exhibit - Indigenous Americans: Maya, Aztec and Native Americans - by Jeffrey Jay Foxx, together with some fabric objects.

DSCN6244 _ Indigenous Americans by Jeff J. Foxx, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6249 _ Indigenous Americans by Jeff J. Foxx, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6245 _ Indigenous Americans by Jeff J. Foxx, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6248 _ Indigenous Americans by Jeff J. Foxx, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

DSCN6247 _ Indigenous Americans by Jeff J. Foxx, Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China

Visiting my home city art museum turned out to be quite a wonderful experience.

DSCN6250 _ Liaoning Museum, Shenyang, China


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Label: Shenyang, Shenyang Trip 2013